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Basalt Cobblestone Quarry, "Fowler Lake South", Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Image taken September 23, 2011.
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Basalt Cobblestone Quarries District ...
The Basalt Cobblestone Quarries District (also known as 45-CL-113H), is located on the Carty Unit of the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge, and was added to the National Register of Historic Places on December 14, 1981 (District #81000587). Between approximately 1880 and 1910 basalt chunks were quarried at seven different locations and then barged up Lake River to Portland, Oregon, where they were chipped into paving stones known as "Belgian blocks".
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Belgian Blocks ...
Belgian blocks, introduced to New York about 1850, were so named because they were first used in Brussels, Belgium. Belgian blocks are of a unique shape - narrower at the top than at the base - rather than of a stone type or source location. Fitted together, the blocks made for sturdy roads.
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NOT Ship's Ballast ...
According to Harvy Scott (1890, "History of Portland") and other researchers, the Belgian blocks used in the roads in Portland, Oregon, were made from locally mined basalt from quarries in St. Helens, Oregon, Ridgefield, Washington, and some mines in the Columbia River Gorge. The basalt was NOT transported here as ship's ballast. However the granite brought in as ship ballast WAS used in Portland crosswalks. This differs from the Belgian blocks used in the roads in Tacoma, Washington, nearly 150 miles north of Portland. According to Peter Callaghan ("Tacoma News Tribune", April 13, 2011), Tacoma's cobblestones were "repurposed granite ballast from ships returning from England or sandstone blocks cut from the mine in Wilkeson".
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Portland Streets ...
The blocks ...
According to a 1983 report which sampled 285 blocks, the average block depth was 4.6 inches, average width was 3.9 inches, and average length was 6.2 inches. An 1890 report mentioned a larger size - "brick-shaped pieces, some 4x10x15 inches".
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"Belgian Blocks", Basalt Cobblestone Quarry, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Image taken September 23, 2011.
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"Belgian Block", Basalt Cobblestone Quarry, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Image taken September 23, 2011.
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Ridgefield Cobblestone Quarries
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- Topography ...
- Columbia River Basalts ...
- Missoula Floods ...
- Basalt Knolls ...
- Panorama ...
- Seven Quarries and Two Rock Haul Roads ...
- "Fowler Lake South" Quarry ...
- "Long Meadow" Quarry ...
- "Long Meadow" Rock Haul Road ...
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Topography ...
"... Seven basalt cobblestone rock quarries lie on the floodplain of the Columbia River approximately two miles north of Ridgefield, Washington. The floodplain here exhibits a rolling topography, characterized by basalt knolls surrounded by low areas of alluvia silt which are seasonally flooded. The quarries are located in the sides of these knolls, and a rock road of the same material connects the quarries with Lake River. The only visible remains of the quarry operations are the quarries and their associated piles of tailings, and the two sections of rock haul road. The walls of several of the quarries have fallen in, and they are overgrown with trees and brush. ..."
Source:
Basalt Cobblestone Quarries District's National Register of Historic Places Nomination form, 1981.
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Columbia River Basalts ...
The basalt knolls in which the quarries were worked are Grande Ronde basalt of the Columbia River Basalts .
These flows are massive fissure lava flows which covered much of Idaho, Washington State, and Oregon between 17 and 5.5 million years ago. Approximately 300 thick sequences were erupted from north-south fissures near the present-day Washington-Idaho border. They ranged from 10 to over 100 feet in thickness.
Twenty-one flows poured through the Columbia River Gorge forming layers of rock up to 2,000 feet thick.
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Missoula Floods ...
Between 15,000 and 12,000 years ago an ice dam burst in Montana, resulting in the massive "Missoula Floods". Over 400 feet of water rushed over the Vancouver Basin, inundating the area from Washougal to Woodland, stripping some areas of surface material and depositing flood material in other areas. Recent LIDAR images show the basalt flows underlying St. Helens, Oregon and Ridgefield, Washington were stripped clean of any surface material.
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Basalt Knolls ...
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Basalt knolls, just north of the Carty Unit (but reached via the Carty Unit), Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast gray day.
Image taken August 10, 2013.
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Basalt knolls, just north of the Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast gray day.
Image taken August 10, 2013.
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Basalt knolls, just north of the Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast gray day.
Image taken August 10, 2013.
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Panorama ...
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Wide-angle panorama, basalt knolls just north of the Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast gray day.
Image taken August 10, 2013.
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Seven Quarries and Two Rock Haul Roads ...
In 1981 seven historic basalt quarry sites on the Carty Unit of the Ridgefield Refuge were listed on the National Register of Historic Places, as the "Basalt Cobblestone Quarries District". The "Long Meadow Quarry" and the rock haul road associated with it are recorded as "45-CL-113H". The other six quarries were grouped together, possibly under site number "45-CL-161H", however information about this number is missing (FWS, 2010). The quarries have no official numbers or names (at least that this web author could uncover) but are identified on this website according to their location.
- "Long Meadow" quarry and associated rock haul road, located at the northeast end of Long Meadow, lat/long of haul road obtained in field via Garmin, 45°50'33.2"N, 122°46'27.9"W.
- "Gee Creek" quarry, located on the south bank of Gee Creek, approximately 1/4 mile northeast of the Long Meadow Quarry, lat/long (determined off map) 45°50'42"N, 122°46'11"W.
- "Fowler Lake South" quarry, located on the south bank of Fowler Lake, lat/long of quarry obtained in field via Garmin, 45°50'10.4"N, 122°45'43.8"W.
- "Fowler Lake West" quarry, located on the west bank of Fowler Lake at approximate lat/long (determined off map) 45°50'27"N, 122°45'56"W.
- "Fowler Lake Island" quarry, located on the western shore of the island in the center of Fowler Lake, at approximate lat/long (determined off map) 45°50'24"N, 122°45'50"W.
- "Fowler Lake Channel" quarry and associated rock haul road, located on the northwestern bank of the northeast channel entering Fowler Lake, at approximate lat/long (determined off map) 45°50'30"N, 122°45'34"W.
- "Oaks to Wetlands Trail" quarry, located at the northern boundary of the Refuge and just west of Boot Lake, at approximately lat/long (determined off map) 45°50'26"N, 122°45'06"W. We have searched for this quarry twice but the area is very overgrown and so far we have not located the quarry.
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"Fowler Lake South" Quarry ...
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Basalt Cobblestone Quarry, "Fowler Lake South", Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Nice sunny day.
Image taken September 23, 2011.
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Basalt Cobblestone Quarry, "Fowler Lake South", Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Nice sunny day.
Image taken September 23, 2011.
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"Long Meadow" Quarry ...
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Quarry tailings, "Long Meadow", Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast day with front moving in.
Image taken October 10, 2014.
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Quarry tailings, "Long Meadow", Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast day with front moving in.
Image taken October 10, 2014.
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Quarry tailings, "Long Meadow", Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast day with front moving in.
Image taken October 10, 2014.
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"Long Meadow" Rock Haul Road ...
All that remains visible of the "Long Meadows" Rock Haul Road is a slight rise in the landscape, approximately 12 feet wide, which drops off again on the other side. The original road ran southwest from the quarry to Lake River. Today a clump of trees splits the road remnants in to two small sections.
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Rock Haul Road, "Long Meadow", Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast day with front moving in.
Image taken October 10, 2014.
Southwestern section, looking northeast.
Photograph taken while standing in the middle of the approximately 12-foot-wide road.
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Rock Haul Road, "Long Meadow", Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Southwestern section, looking north.
Overcast day with front moving in.
Image taken October 10, 2014.
Northeastern section, looking south-southwest. The rock haul road is approximately 12 feet wide, with the dropoff visible (dead grass area, middle left).
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Rock Haul Road, "Long Meadow", Carty Unit, Ridgefield NWR, Washington.
Overcast day with front moving in.
Image taken October 10, 2014.
Northeastern section, looking south-southwest, showing both sides of the rock haul road with rise in the middle. The rock haul road is approximately 12 feet wide.
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Basalt Cobblestone Quarries Information
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- National Register of Historic Places Nomination Form ...
- Information Sign, Ridgefield NWR, Washington ...
- Harvey Scott, Portland Streets (written in 1890) ... (click here)
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National Register of Historic Places ...
Information from the National Register of Historic Places Nomination, "Archaeological Survey of Lower Lake River and Bachelor Island Slough, Clark County, Washington", September 1975, and "Cultural Resources Assessment of the Carty Unit, Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge, Clark County, Washington.", October 1980
Physical Appearance:
"Seven basalt cobblestone rock quarries lie on the floodplain of the Columbia River approximately two miles north of Ridgefield, Washington. The floodplain here exhibits a rolling topography, characterized by basalt knolls surrounded by low areas of alluvia silt which are seasonally flooded. The quarries are located in the sides of these knolls, and a rock road of the same material connects the quarries with Lake River. The only visible remains of the quarry operations are the quarries and their associated piles of tailings, and the two sections of rock haul road. The walls of several of the quarries have fallen in, and they are overgrown with trees and brush.
One quarry and part of the rock haul road have been inventoried on an Archaeological Site Survey Record as 45-CL-113. This site is an extensive quarry located at the northeast end of a large meadow. A rock road runs across the meadow from the quarry to Lake River. ...
The Columbia River basalt outcroppings, which are Miocene to Pliocene in age, provide moderate relief ranging from zero to 40 feet. Thus, most of the knolls rise well above the high water line.
The knolls are covered with Oregon white oak savannah, while willow and other emergent and submergent marsh plants grow in the alluvial areas. A narrow belt of Oregon ash defines the high water line in some areas. Douglas fir grows on the highest ground at the eastern edge of the area.
Refuge management objectives on this unit are to preserve the natural Columbia River floodplain and to provide habitat for migrating waterfowl. The only active management within the nominated area is limited summer grazing by cattle. The area was probably being grazed at the time the quarries were in operation, since other parts of the unit have been farmed for over 100 years. Except for a limited amount of fencing and some jeep trails, the land retains its natural character.
Public use of the Carty Unit is generally limted to wildlife observation, hiking, fishing and berry picking. A self-guiding interpretive trail lies on the east end of the unit, partially within the nominated area and passing by one of the quarry sites. The area along the trail and around the south end of the nominated district is used extensively by school groups for environmental education.
Statement of Significance, 1880-1910.
The Basalt Cobblestone Quarries represent a significant technological period in the development of Portland, Oregon and other American cities, and a turn of the century industry in Ridgefield, Washington.
As Portland grew from a frontier village into an urban and commercial center in the second half of the Nineteenth Century, some sort of street improvements quickly became imperative. The rainy winter climate of Portland turned dirt streets into impassable muddy quagmires, while in summer the streets dried out into dust bowls.
Several different materials, including wooden planks and macadam, were used in the search for a satisfactory paving material that could withstand the extremes of Portland's climate. Beginning about 1880, basalt blocks were quarried near Ridgefield and barged upriver to Portland for use as paving material. The basalt was chipped into brick-shaped pieces of a standard size, called Belgian block, and laid on the streets. Sewer blocks were also cut from the quarries.
By 1885, three miles of Portland's streets were paved with Belgian block (1) and eventually the paving may have covered as much as 30 miles of streets (2) before its use was discontinued. It was used in both east and west Portland.
The stone was hard, and when it was evenly laid it made a firm - and noisy - street. Constant use created problems, however, because the corners of the blocks wore down. They formed a cobblestone surface that was slippery when wet and water froze in the joints during cold weather. Horses pulling heavy loads could not get traction on the slick surface. The unfirm ground on which the blocks were laid caused the paving to warp, and the constant lifting of the blocks for sewer and water line repairs (Portland doesn't have alleyways for utilities) and the installation of street car tracks also contributed toward an uneven surface. The Belgian block paving eventually proved as unsatisfactory as the other paving materials in use at the time.
Much of the cobblestone, or Belgian block, is still intact under the streets of Portland, having been covered over with asphalt. A survey by the city engineer's office estimates that there could be as much as 4.8 million square feet of the stones (3).
While most of the stones came from the Ridgefield quarries, the crosswalks were originally ships' ballast. Crosswalks of the streets were made of slabs of granite a foot wide and four to five feet long, laid treble. The granite was brought from England or China in ships as ballast (4). On the return trip, the ballast was replaced by cargo from the Pacific Northwest. This explains the presence of Chloris radiata, a hardy, tropical grass native to Jamaica, in Portland. It is unknown anywhere else in Oregon, but it can be found in Portland pushing up through the asphalt that covers the old cobblestones (5). Apparently the grass seed was on a cargo from a tropical port and became attached to the ballast, which then was used for street paving.
Portland City Ordinance No.139670, passed by the City Council in 1975, calls for the preservation of cobblestones excavated during construction and maintence activities on city streets. The cobblestones are warehoused by the City and are meant to be reused in appropriate civic historic restoration projects. In 1977, the City estimated it had 60,000 cleaned stones and 200,000 uncleaned stones on hand (6).
The stones have been reused in a number of park projects including a short path in Washington Park, curbs along the Rose City Golf Course, fill in around street tree plantings, and under benches in Pettygrove Park.
Although they represented a significant industry in Ridgefield, very little is recorded about the quarries from which the cobblestones were obtained. The James Carty family owned the land and John (Jack) McKie operated the quarries, apparently leasing the sites from the Cartys. McKie worked under contract to the Portland Contracting Company and employed many Ridgefield residents. ...
Work book pages in the possession of the McKie family indicate that the quarries were still in operation in April 1903, and the oral family history states that the contract expired in 1909 (10).
Although the local significance of the quarries was short-lived, they played a significant role in the economic and cultural growth of Nineteenth Century Portland and Ridgefield. Since Portland was not the only American city searching for a satisfactory paving material for its streets during the Nineteenth Century, on a national level the quarries represent an important technological experiment in the evolution of American cities."
(1) H.W. Scott, History of Portland, Oregon, (Syracuse, N.Y. 1890), p.206.
(2) The Sunday Oregonian, 19 May 1974.
(3) Oregon Journal, 15 July 1974.
(4) Scott, p.206.
(5) The Sunday Oregonian, 19 May 1974.
(6) Doug Bridges, memorandum to Bob Gustafson, (City of Portland, Oregon: Bureau to Planning), 15 June 1977.
(10) Mrs. Allan McKie, letter to James E. Carty, 28 May 1975.
Source:
Steven E. Thomsen, Bureau of Street & Structural Engineering, 1983, Report on Belgian Block Paving, City of Portland, Oregon, April 1983, and
taken from the National Register of Historic Places, Inventory -- Nomination Form, "Archaeological Survey of Lower Lake River and Bachelor Island Slough, Clark County, Washington", September 1975, and "Cultural Resources Assessment of the Carty Unit, Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge, Clark County, Washington.", October 1980.
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Information Sign, Ridgefield NWR, Washington ...
FROM HERE to the STREETS
"IN THE LATE 19th CENTURY, Portland's dirt streets kicked up dust in summer and turned to muddy ruts in winter. With the city's growth as a commercial center, Portland scrambled to improve the road system. In the 1880s, seven basalt quarries were established near here to meet the city's needs. John McKie leased the quarry land from the Carty family, the landowners at the time. McKie hired local workers to blast the basalt with dynamite, chip the rock into uniform bricks by hand and load them onto barges to be floated upriver to Portland. The city paved over 30 miles of streets with the blocks. The quarries were abandoned in 1909 as newer road building techniques came into fashion."
Source:
Information Sign, Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge, Carty Unit, Ridgefield, Washington, 2014.
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Basalt Quarries and Portland Streets information sign, Ridgefield NWR, Carty Unit, Washington.
Image taken May 30, 2014.
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Detail, Basalt Quarries and Portland Streets information sign, Ridgefield NWR, Carty Unit, Washington.
Image taken May 30, 2014.
Historic photo is 1917 photograph showing NW Hoyt Street paved with Belgian block.
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From the Journals of Lewis and Clark ...
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Clark, November 5, 1805 ...
Clark, March 29, 1806 ...
Lewis, March 29, 1806 ...
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