Lewis and Clark's Columbia River
Lewis & Clark's Columbia River - "200 Years Later"
"Skamania and Skamania Landing, Washington"
Includes ... Skamania ... Skamania Landing ... Dodson Creek ... Dodson Creek Dam ... Franz Lake NWR ... Shahala Lake ... Shahala Park ... Butler ... North Bank Road ...
Image, 2005, at Skamania Landing looking across, click to enlarge
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At Skamania Landing dock, looking across the Columbia River. Image taken February 26, 2005.


Skamania and Skamania Landing ...
Skamania and Skamania Landing are located on the Washington side of the Columbia River at River Mile (RM) 140. Upstream is Duncan Creek, Woodard Creek, and Beacon Rock. Downstream are Indian Mary Creek, Franz and Arthur Lakes, and the Franz Lake National Wildlife Refuge. Six miles downstream is the Washington community of Prindle and inland between the two is located Archer Mountain. Across the river from Skamania Landing is Dodson, Oregon, and the prominent Yeon Mountain. The town of Skamania is inland from Skamania Landing.

Lewis and Clark and Skamania Landing ...
Lewis and Clark passed the Skamania Landing area on November 2, 1805, on their way to their camp for the night at Rooster Rock.

"... passed three Islands covered with tall timber opposit the Beatin rock    Those Islands are nearest the Starboard Side, imediately below on the Stard. Side passed a village of nine houses, which is Situated between 2 Small Creeks, and are of the Same construction of those above ..." [Clark, November 2, 1805]

Today, the "three Islands" are two, Pierce and Ives, and "Beatin rock" is Beacon Rock. The two "Small Creeks" are Woodard Creek on the upstream side of the village and Duncan Creek on the downstream side of the village.

On their return in April, Lewis and Clark stopped to visit the village. On April 9, 1806, Captain Clark calls the village a "Wah-clel-lah" village and writes that the village appeared to be "the wintering Station of two bands of the Shah-ha-la Nation".

"... at 7 A. M. we Set out and proceeded on to the Camp of Joseph & Reubin Fields. they had killed nothing. here we did not delay but proceeded on to Wah-clel-lah Village on the North Side and brackfast ...    This Village appears to be the wintering Station of two bands of the Shah-ha-la Nation. One band has already moved the Falls of the Multnomah which is the place they take their Salmon. The other band is now moveing a fiew miles above to the foot of the first rapid on this river, at which place they take their Salmon. 14 houses only appear occupied and the inhabitants of those moveing off hourly, they take with them in their Canoes independent of all their household effects the bark of their houses, and boards. 9 houses has been latterly abandened and 14 others is yet is thinly inhabited at present, and the remains of 10 or 12 others are to be Seen and appears to have been enhabited last fall. those people were not hospital ..." [Clark, April 9, 1806]

Early Skamania ...
Robert Hitchman wrote in "Place Names of Washington" (1985, Washington State Historical Society):

"Skamania (T2N, R6E, S34) ... Settlement on north bank of Columbia River, 33 miles east of Vancouver, southwest Skamania County. An early name for this settlement, no longer used, was "Butler". The Indian name, which applies to parts of the Columbia River, means swift water or swift river."

"Skamania" to Replace "Butler".

"Butler, Skamania County, Washington, is destined to pass from existence. After December 1 the town on the North Bank Railroad, where fishermen get off and on the trains, will lose its present name and to be rechristened "Skamania." The change is made to avoid conflict with other Butlers in various parts of the country."


Source:    "Sunday Oregonian", November 14, 1915, courtesy Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2016.


Fresedale, Marrs Landing, Mendota, Butler, Butler's Landing, Butler Station, Edgewater, and Skamania ...
Besides "Butler" and "Skamania", the Skamania area has been known by many names, including Fresedale, Marrs Landing, Mendota, Butler, Butler's Landing, Butler Station, Edgewater, and Skamania.

"[Some] early settlements had their names changed frequently, as settlers moved in and out. For example, the little town of Skamania has been known as Fresedale, Marrs Landing, Mendota, Butler, Butler's Landing, Edgewater, and Skamania in its 100 years of existence." [Michael S. Spranger, 1997, "Columbia Gorge: A Unique American Treasure", Diane Publishing]

Fresedale shows up in the 1883 Official Postal Guide, Marrs Landing is on an 1897 Post Route Map, Butler's Landing shows up in a 1902 "Morning Oregonian", and Edgewater and Butler Station show up in a 1914 "Morning Oregonian". In December 1914 "Skamania" became the official name.

1883 ...
The 1883 United States Official Postal Guide lists "Fresedale, Skamania, Wash."

1896 ...
"The Stevenson Pioneer says that a Fishermen's Protective Association has been formed by the fishermen of Marr's Landing and vicinity, who hoped to extend the organization all along the river to The Dalles. ... [The Dalles Daily Chronicle", October 5, 1896, courtesy Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2016]

1902 ...
"E.M. Rands, State Senator from Clark County, Washington, was in Portland yesterday, returning from Butler's Landing, Skamania County, where he delivered a Fourth of July oration." ["Morning Oregonian", July 7, 1902, courtesy Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2016]

1909 ...
"After looking carefully along the river, he [Sam Samson] selected Skamania County as the best, and purchased 1800 acres of land between Butler and Stevenson." ["Morning Oregonian", August 29, 1909, courtesy Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2016]

1911 ...
"STEVENSON, Wash., Nov. 14 -- (Special.) -- W.H. Shores, brakeman on Spokane, Portland & Seattle train No.75, en route from Fallbridge to Vacauver, was murdered tonight about 11 o'clock at a point a half mile east of Butler Station." ["Morning Oregonian", November 15, 1911, courtesy Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2016]

1914 ...
"I WILL receive sealed bids for a stock of general merchandise consisting principally of groceries, etc., located at Edgewater, Washington, Butler station, on the North Bank Railway, ..." ["Morning Oregonian", November 9, 1914, courtesy Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2016]

Jim Forte's website "Postal History" (2016) gives dates to early Skamania post offices.

  • 1882 - 1883 ... Fresedale
  • 1892 - 1899 ... Marrs Landing
  • 1899 - 1902 ... Mendota (note: Lewis County Mendota, 1909 - 1923)
  • 1902 - 1911 ... Butler
  • 1911 - 1915 ... Edgewater
  • 1915 - 1974 ... Skamania

Image, 1897 Railroad Map, Camas to Viento, click to enlarge
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HISTORICAL MAP, 1897, "Post Route Map of the State of Washington", showing the Columbia River from Camas, Washington, to Viento, Oregon. Map shows the use of "Marrs Landing" where today is located Skamania. Original Map courtesy Washington State Libraries, 2006.


Views ...

Image, 2017, Skamania Landing, Washington, click to enlarge
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Boat dock, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken July 17, 2017.
Image, 2015, Yeon Mountain from Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Yeon Mountain from Skamania Landing boat ramp, Washington. Image taken December 31, 2015.
Image, 2014, Shahala Park, Skamania Landing, Washington, click to enlarge
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Bridge over eastern end of Shahala Lake, Skamania Landing, Washington. Oil train on tracks in the background. Image taken March 21, 2014.
Image, 2014, Skamania Landing, Washington, click to enlarge
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Wetlands east of Shahala Lake, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken March 21, 2014.
Image, 2016, Skamania County, Washington, Washington, click to enlarge
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Burlington Northern Santa Fe tracks at Skamania Landing, Washington. View looking east. Image taken June 11, 2016.


Skamania Landing, etc.

  • Duncan Creek ...
  • Duncan Creek Dam ...
  • Franz Lake NWR ...
  • North Bank Road ...
  • Sams Walker Trails and Day-Use Park ...
  • Shahala Lake and Park ...
  • Skamania County Volunteer Fire Department ...
  • Skamania General Store and Beacon Rock Cafe ...
  • Stone House ...
  • View from Oregon ...
  • Views from Skamania Landing ...


Duncan Creek ...
Duncan Creek enters the Columbia River at RM 140.5, on the east side of Skamania Landing. Before reaching the Columbia River, Duncan Creek flows southeast and then northeast into Shahala Lake, the reservoir behind the 120-foot-long Duncan Creek Dam. Duncan Creek Dam was constructed in the early 1960s and then modified to help Chum Salmon migrate into the creek.
[More]


Image, 2004, at Skamania Landing looking upstream, click to enlarge
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Columbia River shoreline upstream from Skamania Landing, Washington. Drainage from Duncan Creek/Shahala Lake is visible on the left. View from the boat dock. Image taken August 1, 2004.


Duncan Creek Dam ...
Duncan Creek Dam was constructed in the early 1960s and then modified to help Chum Salmon migrate into the creek.
[More]

Image, 2015, Duncan Creek Dam, click to enlarge
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Duncan Creek Dam as seen from Bridge, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken January 25, 2015.
Image, 2015, Duncan Creek Dam, click to enlarge
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Duncan Creek Dam as seen from Bridge, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken January 25, 2015.


Franz Lake NWR ...
The Franz Lake National Wildlife Refuge is located on the Washington side of the Columbia River at River Mile (RM) 138, and is located just downstream of Skamania Landing. The Franz Lake Refuge is within the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, and is a popular place for wintering tundra swans. Its system of river streams and wetlands provide habitat for breeding, migrating and wintering waterfowl and other aquatic migratory birds and raptors such as bald eagles. It may be viewed from an overlook located near Washington State Highway 14 at milepost 31.
[More]

Image, 2003, Franz Lake National Wildlife Refuge, click to enlarge
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Franz Lake National Wildlife Refuge, Washington. View from overlook off of Washington State Highway 14. Image taken October 25, 2003.


North Bank Road ...
The Great Northern Railway and Northern Pacific Railroad, competitors in the transcontinental business, launched the Spokane, Portland & Seattle Railway in 1905 and built a line along the north side of the Columbia River. This line was known as "The North Bank Railroad", "The North Bank Road", "Columbia River Scenic Route", and "The Northwests Own Railway". The tracks were started in October 1905 and completed in February 1908, with a celebration being held on March 11th at Sheridan Point upstream of the Fort Rains Blockhouse location. On March 19th, regular passenger service between Vancouver and Pasco was begun. The journey took eight hours.

STATIONS ON THE NORTH BANK
Between Vancouver and Pasco There Will Be 43 Stops.

"LYLE, Wash., July 24, 1907. -- (Special.) -- Chief Surgeon Irvine, of the North Bank Road says there will be 43 stations about five miles apart on the line between Vancouver and Pasco. From west to east the stations will appear on the new map as Image, Fisher, Bourne, Seal, Cruzatt, Butler (Skamania), Cascades, Stevenson, Ash, Collins, Cooks, Hood, Bingen, Villa, Lyle, Skadat, Grandalles, Spedis, Avery, Timms, Columbus, Cliffs, Towal, Harbin, Fountain, Sanda, Roosevelt, Moonax, McCredie, Carley, Luzon, Sage, Patterson, Coolide, Gravel, Plymouth, Colbia, Mottinger, Tomar, Yellepit, Hoover and Finley. He also reports the track is being blasted as fast as laid."


Source:    "Morning Oregonian", July 25, 1907, courtesy Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2019.

[More]



Sams Walker Trails and Day-Use Park ...
History:
"In 1983, Skamania County approved a 78-acre riverfront subdivision called Hidden Harbor on wetlands just downriver from Washington's Beacon Rock State Park and across the Columbia River from Oregon's renowned Horsetail Falls. While today's National Scenic Area would not allow such a subdivision, the law was still three years away from enactment. Friends of the Columbia Gorge filed a lawsuit on the ecological impact to the shoreline and successfully stopped the subdivision. The Trust for Public Land later bought the property and in 1988 conveyed it to the U.S. Forest Service; today it is a public park. "


Source:    "Friends of the Gorge" website, Sams Walker Loop, 2016.

"William Sams, an ex-Oregonian who moved to Skamania, Wash., in 1905, died Friday at the Skyline hospital in White Salmon, Wash. Funeral service will be Tuesday at 10 a.m. at Swank Memorial chapel in Camas, Wash. Vault interment will be in Washougal cemetery. Mr. Sams, 97, was born October 31, 1858, in Prescott, Wis. He came to Oregon and homesteaded at Warrendale in 1887. From 1896 until 1905 he owned and operated fish wheels at Ives island and Warrendale.

He was postmaster at Skamania from 1910 to 1915 and was a member of the Cape Horn grange No. 170.

Survivors include sons, W.L., C.A. and Arch M., all of Skamania; Lee E., Bonneville, and Robert D., Seattle; daughters, Mrs. Elmer Walker and Mrs. George McDonald both of Skamania; Mrs. William Reiber, Ferndale, Wash.; Mrs. E.J. Shields, Oswego; Mrs. Florence Henrikson, Port Orchard, Wash., and Miss Marie Sames, Manhatten Beach, Cal.; 14 grandchildren; 19 great-grandchildren, and one great-great-grandchild.


Source:    The Oregonian, July 10, 1955, courtesy "Find A Grave" website, 2016.


Image, 2015, Skamania County, Washington, Washington, click to enlarge
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Sign, Sams-Walker Trails and Day-Use Park, Skamania County, Washington. Image taken February 16, 2015.
Image, 2015, Skamania County, Washington, Washington, click to enlarge
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Sign, Nature Trail, Sams-Walker Trails and Day-Use Park, Skamania County, Washington. Image taken February 16, 2015.
Image, 2015, Skamania County, Washington, Washington, click to enlarge
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Sign, Grace's Meadow, Sams-Walker Trails and Day-Use Park, Skamania County, Washington. Image taken February 16, 2015.

Grace Sams Walker was the second of William Sams' fourteen children. Grace and her husband Elmer purchased this property from her father, William Sams, in the 1930s.
Image, 2016, Skamania County, Washington, Washington, click to enlarge
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Grace's Meadow, Sams-Walker Trails and Day-Use Park, Skamania County, Washington. Image taken June 11, 2016.

William Sams owned this property and planted this meadow in grasses, providing a nutritious grazing for the Sams horses and dairy cows.
Image, 2016, Skamania County, Washington, Washington, click to enlarge
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Grace's Meadow, Sams-Walker Trails and Day-Use Park, Skamania County, Washington. Image taken September 26, 2016.


Shahala Lake and Park ...
Shahala Lake is the reservoir behind the Duncan Creek Dam.

First Peoples
"In what was to become Skamania County, the first residents called themselves Chilluckittequw and they lived along the rivers that drained into the Columbia between Beacon Rock and about Hood River. They spoke a dialect described as the Upper Division of Chinookan and could communicate with other tribes that lived along the Columbia from The Dalles to the mouth at the Pacific. Explorers Lewis and Clark (1805) called them the Smock-shops and other observers dubbed them Sahellellah, Shahala, Ninuhltidihs, and Kwikwuilits. American settlers named them Cascades. "


Source:    "historylink.org" website, 2014, "the Free Online Encyclopedia of Washington State History"

Image, 2014, Shahala Park, Skamania Landing, Washington, click to enlarge
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Sign, Shahala Park, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken March 21, 2014.
Image, 2016, Shahala Lake, Skamania Landing, Washington, click to enlarge
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Shahala Lake, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken September 26, 2016.
Image, 2014, Shahala Lake, Skamania Landing, Washington, click to enlarge
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Shahala Lake, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken March 21, 2014.
Image, 2014, Shahala Lake, Skamania Landing, Washington, click to enlarge
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Shahala Lake, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken March 21, 2014.


Skamania County Volunteer Fire Department ...

Image, 2012, Skamania, Washington, click to enlarge
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Skamania County Volunteer Fire Department, Skamania, Washington. View from moving car on Washington State Highway 14. Image taken June 15, 2012.


Skamania General Store and Beacon Rock Cafe ...
According to the Skamania General Store's Facebook page (2017), the General Store was established in 1906.
[More]


Image, 2014, Skamania, Washington, click to enlarge
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Skamania General Store, Skamania, Washington. Image taken October 27, 2014.
Image, 2017, Skamania, Washington, click to enlarge
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Skamania General Store, Skamania, Washington. Image taken July 17, 2017.
Image, 2017, Skamania, Washington, click to enlarge
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Skamania General Store, Skamania, Washington. Image taken July 17, 2017.
Image, 2016, Skamania, Washington, click to enlarge
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Skamania General Store, Skamania, Washington. Image taken June 11, 2016.


Stone House ...
[More]

Image, 2013, Stone House, click to enlarge
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Stone House, Skamania County, Washington. Image taken February 19, 2013.
Image, 2013, Stone House, click to enlarge
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Stone House, Skamania County, Washington. Image taken February 19, 2013.


View from Oregon ...

Image, 2005, at Skamania Landing looking upstream, click to enlarge
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Skamania Landing, Washington, as seen from the boat dock near Dodson, Oregon. Image taken October 22, 2005.


Views from Skamania Landing ...

Image, 2005, Yeon Mountain from Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Yeon Mountain and Katanai Rock from Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken June 29, 2005.
Image, 2005, Boat ramp at Dodson, Oregon, from Skamania Landing, Washington, click to enlarge
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Boat ramp at Dodson, Oregon, as seen from Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken June 29, 2005.
Image, 2004, Columbia River looking upstream from Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Columbia River upstream from Skamania Landing, Washington. View from boat dock. Image taken August 1, 2004.
Image, 2005, Columbia River upstream from Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Columbia River upstream from Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken June 29, 2005.
Image, 2005, Beacon Rock from Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Beacon Rock from Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken June 29, 2005.
Image, 2005, Columbia River downstream from Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Columbia River downstream from Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken June 29, 2005.
Image, 2005, Yeon Mountain, St. Peters Dome, and Rock of Ages, from Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Yeon Mountain, Katanai Rock, St. Peters Dome, and Rock of Ages, Oregon, as seen from Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken June 29, 2005.
Image, 2005, Oregon shore through trees, from Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Columbia Gorge view from Skamania Landing, Washington. Yeon Mountain is prominent on the middle skyline with Katanai Rock at its lower base and St. Peter's Dome to the right. Image taken June 29, 2005.
Image, 2005, At Skamania Landing, click to enlarge
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Kayaking, Skamania Landing, Washington. Image taken June 29, 2005.


From the Journals of Lewis and Clark ...

Clark, November 2, 1805 ...





Clark, April 9, 1806 ...


Lewis, April 9, 1806




Columbia River GorgeReturn to
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*River Miles [RM] are approximate, in statute miles, and were determined from USGS topo maps, obtained from NOAA nautical charts, or obtained from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers website, 2003

Sources:
  • Forte, Jim, "PostalHistory.com" website, 2016;
  • Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2019;
  • Hitchman, R., 1985, "Place Names of Washington", Washington State Historical Society;
  • Historic Oregon Newspapers Archives, University of Oregon Libraries, 2016, 2017;
  • "historylink.org" website, 2014;
  • "PostalHistory.com" website, 2016;
  • Skamania General Store Facebook page, 2017;
  • Spranger, M.S., 1997, "Columbia Gorge: A Unique American Treasure", Diane Publishing;


All Lewis and Clark quotations from Gary Moulton editions of the Lewis and Clark Journals, University of Nebraska Press, all attempts have been made to type the quotations exactly as in the Moulton editions, however typing errors introduced by this web author cannot be ruled out; location interpretation from variety of sources, including this website author.
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July 2017