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Hat Rock, Oregon.
Hat Rock is a remnant of a Columbia River Basalt flow, eroded during the Missoula Floods.
Image taken September 24, 2004.
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"... a rock in a Lard. resembling a hat just below a rapid at the lower Point of an Island in the Midl: of the river ..."
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Hat Rock ...
Hat Rock is located off U.S. Highway 730, nine miles upstream of
Umatilla, Oregon, at Columbia River Mile (RM) 298.
Hat Rock is located within Oregon's Hat Rock State Park.
The basalt monolith was passed by the Lewis and Clark Expedition on their journey down the Columbia, and today is one of the few remaining sites not under the waters of Lake Wallula, the reservoir behind the
McNary Dam. On October 19, 1805, after leaving their camp near Spring Gulch Creek, Captain Clark wrote in his journal:
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"... SW. 14 miles to a rock in a Lard. resembling a hat just below a rapid at the lower Point of an Island in the Midl: of the river ..." [Clark, October 19, 1805, first draft]
Immediately upstream of Hat Rock is Boat Rock, another distinctive basalt feature, and Warehouse Beach, a U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Recreation Area. Downstream of Hat Rock is McNary Beach, another Corps of Engineers Recreation Area. Hat Rock and Boat Rock are both Missoula Flood remnants of Columbia River Basalt flows.
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Views of Hat Rock ...
 Click image to enlarge
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Hat Rock, Oregon.
Image taken September 24, 2004.
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 Click image to enlarge
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Hat Rock, Oregon.
Image taken September 24, 2004.
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 Click image to enlarge
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Hat Rock, Oregon, and the Columbia River.
Image taken September 24, 2004.
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Hat Rock State Park ...
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In 1951, Oregon acquired the area around Hat Rock, and created
Hat Rock State Park. The 735-acre park is a desert oasis surrounded by rolling sagebrush hills and outcroppings of basalt. The park has its own pond stocked with rainbow trout and provides year-round habitat for waterfowl.
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 Click image to enlarge
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Hat Rock State Park, Oregon.
Image taken September 24, 2004.
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 Click image to enlarge
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Hat Rock State Park, Oregon.
Image taken September 27, 2002.
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From the Journals of Lewis and Clark ...
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Clark, October 19, 1805, first draft ...
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S W. 14 miles to a rock in a Lard. resembling that a hat
just below a
rapid at the lower Point of an Island in the Midl: of the river
7 Lodges and opposit the head of one on the Stard. Side 5
Lodges
passed an Island at 8 miles 6 miles long close to
Lard Side
no water on Lard.
a Small one opsd. and at the
lower point
no water Lard.
passed an Isld. in middle at 8
miles on which 5 Indian Lodges, deserted
at the end of this course a bad rockey rapid
place plenty of water rocks in the river. —
passed a Stard. point at 4 miles
country a little lower
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Clark, October 19, 1805 ...
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we Set out which was not untill 9 oClock A M. [from their camp at Spring Gulch] we proceeded on passed a Island, close under the Lard Side about Six miles in length [islands near Juniper Canyon, now under the waters of Lake Wallula] opposit to the lower point of which two Isds. are situated on one of which five Lodges <of Indians> vacent & Saffolds drying fish at the upper point of this Island Swift water. a Short distance below passed two Islands; one near the middle of the river on which is Seven lodges of Indians drying fish [across from Boat Rock and Hat Rock], at our approach they hid themselves in their Lodges and not one was to be seen untill we passed, they then Came out in greater numbers than is common in Lodges of their Size, it is probable that, the inhabitants of the 5 Lodges above had in a fright left their lodges and decended to this place to defend them Selves if attackted there being a bad rapid opposit the Island thro which we had to pass prevented our landing on this Island and passifying those people,
about four miles below this fritened Island we arrived at the head of a verry bad rapid [Umatilla Rapids, today the location of the McNary Dam]
[The islands and rapids in this area between Spring Gulch and the Umatilla Rapids are now under the waters of Lake Wallula, the reservoir behind the McNary Dam. Today's locations passed by Lewis and Clark include Sand Station, Warehouse Beach, and McNary Beach, all U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Recreation Areas, and Hat Rock State Park and nearby Boat Rock. Hat Rock was mentioned by Captain Clark in his first draft but not in his final draft.]
we came too on the Lard Side to view the rapid [Umatilla Rapids] before we would venter to run it, as the Chanel appeared to be close under the oppd. Shore, and it would be necessary to liten our canoe, I deturmined to walk down on the Lard Side, with the 2 Chiefs the interpreter & his woman, and derected the Small canoe to prcede down on the Lard Side to the foot of the rapid which was about 2 miles in length I Sent on the Indian Chiefs &c. down and I assended a high clift about 200 feet above the water [upstream of Umatilla. Today there is an overlook above the McNary Dam] from the top of which is a leavel plain extending up the river and off for a great extent, at this place the Countrey becoms low on each Side of the river, and affords a pros of the river and countrey below for great extent both to the right and left; from this place I descovered a high mountain of emence hight covered with Snow, this must be one of the mountains laid down by Vancouver, as Seen from the mouth of the Columbia River, from the Course which it bears which is West I take it to be Mt. St. Helens, destant <about 120> 156 miles [actually Mount Adams, Washington, visible on a clear day] a range of mountains in the Derection crossing [Cascade Mountains], a conacal mountain S. W. toped with Snow [Mount Hood, Oregon] This rapid I observed [Umatilla Rapids] as I passed opposit to it to be verry bad interseped with high rock and Small rockey Islands [today these islands are under the waters of Lake Wallula, the reservoir behind the McNary Dam], here I observed banks of Muscle Shells banked up in the river in Several places, I Delayed at the foot of the rapid about 2 hours for the Canoes which I could See met with much dificuelty in passing down the rapid on the oposit Side maney places the men were obliged to get into the water and haul the canoes over Sholes-
while Setting on a rock wateing for Capt Lewis I Shot a Crain which was flying over of the common kind. I observed a great number of Lodges on the opposit Side at Some distance below [Lewis and Clark's map show 44 lodges lining the Washington shore from Plymouth, Washington, downstream to across from Irrigon, Oregon.] and Several Indians on the opposit bank passing up to where Capt. Lewis was with the Canoes, others I Saw on a knob [Sillusi Butte] nearly opposit to me at which place they delayed but a Short time before they returned to their Lodges as fast as they could run,
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[This area today is the location of Umatilla, Oregon, and Plymouth, Washington, and is spanned not only by McNary Dam but also my the Interstate 82/395 Bridge. The Umatilla Rapids are below the waters of Lake Wallula, the waters behind McNary Dam.]
proceeded on passed a Small rapid and 15 Lodges below the five,
[Lewis and Clark have missed spotting or commenting on the Umatilla River, located 3 miles downstream of the town of Umatilla.]
and Encamped below an Island Close under the Lard Side [near Irrigon, Oregon] nearly opposit to 24 Lodges on an Island near the middle of the river [the majority of the islands in this area are now under the waters of Lake Umatilla, the reservoir behind the John Day Dam.], and the Main Stard Shor Soon after we landed which was at a fiew willow trees [today much of the shoreline on both sides of the Columbia is within the Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge] about 100 Indians Came from the different Lodges, and a number of them brought wood which they gave us, we Smoked with all of them, and two of our Party Peter Crusat & Gibson played on the violin which delighted them greatly
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This day we made 36 miles
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